Gion Matsuri / 祇園祭

　Though I enjoy it when people, especially family, come to visit, I occasionally have trouble when showing them around Kyoto and Seika. By this point I have seen pretty much every famous temple, shrine and sushi bar this side of Osaka. So while my guests are all in awe of the beautiful Japanese architecture and culture, I’m wondering where the nearest all you can eat place is. However, this past week, my mother was kind enough to come when one of Japan’s biggest festivals, Gion Matsuri, was being held. As I’ve never been, this seemed like a good chance for both of us to see something entirely new.

 

　京都府で住みはじめたときから、友だちや家族がよく遊びにきます。京都府の寺や神社などの日本文化の遺産は世界中に知られているので、日本人の友だちや家族が私と会うためだけでなく、京都の有名な所にも案内してもらおうと来ます。ただし、最近案内することはちょっと大変になりました。それは、もう一年間京都府で住んでいましたし、色々な人を案内したので、最も有名な寺や神社を全部何回も見ました。だから、その友だちは凄く感動しても、何回も見た私にとって、そういう初めての感動はもう感じません。でも、先週母親が来てくれていた間に、知らない日本人に一人もいない祇園祭が開催されていたので、久しぶりにすごくワクワクしました。

　The festival was started in the 800s, when a terrible plague was devastating Kyoto. Deciding that the gods were miffed about something, the emperor decreed that 66 halberds, one for each prefecture, be raised at Yasuka Shrine in the Gion district to appease the gods. This practice was repeated every time a plague hit, and the festival became a yearly event in 970. Over time Gion Matsuri gradually changed into a kind of parade, where portable shrines were carried throughout the town.

　祇園祭は千年以上の歴史があります。800年代に、京都市でひどい疫病が流行していましたので、神様を鎮めて疫病を退散してもらうように天皇は八坂神社で当時の日本列島内の国の数66ヵにちなんで国矛を66本立てました。その時から、京都市で疫病が発生するたびに矛を立てまして、970年から毎年の行事になりました。時間がたち、矛を立てる習慣がなくなりましたが、現在の山鉾巡行の形になりました。

　Gion Matsuri lasts the entire month of July, and has more events than you can shake a stick at. The most popular and famous has to be Yamaboko parade, a parade featuring giant floats known as Yamaboko that goes down on the 17th of July. The Yamaboko floats(technically two distinct styles, one called yama and one called hoko) can be huge, towering over 25 meters and weighing in at near 12 tons and requiring a team of near 50 men to pull them. All the floats are decorated with beautiful tapestries, some woven in areas like Persia, Belgium and Turkery.

　祇園祭は7月1日から31日まで開催されていますので、本当に数え切れないほど行事があります。一番有名なのは7月17日に行なわれる山鉾巡行です。山鉾というのは、2種類の山車（山と鉾）なんです。そして、鉾の山車は昔立てた矛を代表し、息をのむほど大きいです。高さ25メートルで、重さ10，000キロ以上で、50人に引っ張られています。

　However, as Mom and I found out, the three days leading up to the parade are a blast too, and in some respects, the real “festival” part of Gion Matsuri. The floats are set out for people to see and even go into, and thousands of people wander up and down the streets of Kyoto. Food vendors open up and start selling friend chicken, pineapple, and nearly every corner had someone hawking cold drinks and beer. Almost every girl was decked out in her yukata, and it was clear that the Japanese folks were getting just as much fun having a “Kyoto” experience as my mom and I were.

　さらに、山鉾巡行の前の3日間も魅力があります。それぞれよいよいよいやま、よいよいやま、よいやまと呼ばれている3日間で、巡行に出る山鉾は道に置いてあり、柔らかな光を出している灯がついてます。人々は山鉾を間近で見れますが、入ってみることができる山鉾もあります。屋台が出て、商人たちはたこ焼やから揚げなどを売り出しますが、各街角で冷たいお茶やビールを売っていました。何万人もの人が京都市の道を埋めていましたが、洋服より浴衣を着ていた人のほうが多そうでした。確かに、「京都」や「日本」的な感じを楽しんでいたのは僕とお母さんだけではありませんでした。

　The parade itself was quite something, if just for the fact that the guys pulling the floats didn’t pass out from heat stroke. The sidewalks were packed with people and despite the fact that progression of the floats was slow (you wouldn’t move fast if you were dragging 12 tons either), watching the huge floats moving through the city was kind of like seeing ships sailing through the city streets. Musicians followed every float, and some had dancers or performers following along, swinging staffs or hopping around.

　山鉾巡行も見事でしたが、その何十メートルの高さがある山鉾の漸進を見ると、ビルが船になったようでした。たしかに山鉾に乗ったり、音楽をひいたりするのは楽しそうでしたが、一番尊敬していたのは引っ張っていた男たちでした。重い物を持ち上げるのが大好きな私でも、その10，000キロ以上がある山鉾を朝から夜までしゃく熱の道で引っ張ったら、イエス様と会う機会をもらうと思います。

　

Gion Matsuri was exciting not only because we got to watch huge floats rolling down the city streets, but also because I got to show it to my mother, and be just as excited as she was about it. Hopefully it’ll be just as fun next year.

　もちろん母親が滞在期間色々なところに案内しましたが、一番印象を与えたのは祇園祭でした。それは、お母さんと一緒に、そして同じほど楽しめましたからです。

京都市でのお花見 Flower Viewing in Kyoto

そして、大阪城公園に行った翌日に伝統的な京都市でお花見をしに行きました。祗園で舞妓さんを見かけて、桜もきれいだったし、とても楽しかったです。丸山公園の桜も満開で、人がいっぱいでした。

_

Then the day after I went to Osaka Castle Park I went to traditional Kyoto City to do some more flower viewing. In Gion I saw some Maiko, and the cherry blossoms there were also very beautiful. In Maruyama Park, the flowers were also in full bloom so there were a lot of people.

_

冬の気分 It Feels Like Winter

土曜日の夜雨が降っていたので、日曜日の朝に起きたとき、窓から外へ見て、雪が積もっていたのはすごくびっくりしました。今まで精華町に住んで、２年目の冬ですのに、初めて雪が積もることでした。約５ｃｍしか積もってなかったが、すごいけれいと思っていました。

そして、その冬の気分で、友達と一緒に京都市の西京極にあるアイススケート場に行きました。なんとか、今までの人生は一回もアイススケートをしたことがありませんでした。だから、初めてでした。一発目は怖いと思っていたが、頑張って三時間をスケートしたら滑れるようになりました。勿論、倒りましたが、楽しい経験でした。

This past Saturday night it was raining all night long so when I woke up and looked out the window to see snow covering everything on Sunday morning I was really surprised. This is the second winter that I have lived in Seika Town but this was the first time I have seen snow covering the ground. There was only about 5cm of snow covering cars and in the rice fields, but I thought it looked really beautiful.

So with that feeling of winter, my friends and I went to the ice skating rink in Nishi Kyogoku, Kyoto City. Somehow I have made it this far in my life without ever once having ice skated, so this was my first time. When I first stepped onto the ice it was really scary and I didn’t even see how I would start. But we were there for about 3 hours so by the end I was able to skate fairly well. Of course I fell down, but all in all it was a fun experience.

_

楽農体験ツアー （稲刈り） Agricultural Experience Tour (Rice Harvesting)

平成１９年６月９日（土）に僕が初めて参加した「楽農体験ツアー」の話をこのブログに載せました。その時は精華町乾谷区内水田ほ場で田植えを活動しました。農業体験のない僕はかなり興味深くて裸足で田んぼに入って、昔のように手で田植えしてみました。そして、先週末その同じ田んぼに収穫しに行きました。山田荘地域農場づくり協議会事務局及び精華町役場事業部産業振興課が主催される毎年のイベントで、今年は約４０人が参加しました。若い子からお年寄りの方も来て、楽しい経験になりました。
On June 9th, 2007 I participated in the Agricultural Experience Tour which I have written about in this blog. At that time we planted rice at the Inuidani Farm. Having never had any agricultural experience I was pretty interested in trying it out, so I jumped in the muddy field barefoot and planted rice by hand like in the old days. Then last weekend I went back to the same field to harvest the rice that I helped plant. The Agricultural Experience Tour is organized by the Yamadasho Regional Agriculture Association and the Seika Town Industry Promotion Division and is held every year. This year there were about 40 participants ranging from young children to senior citizens. It was a fun experience for everyone.

今回も昔のように手で稲刈りをしました。以外としんどかったです。稲刈りしてから、コンバインに入れて、米が自動に袋に集まっていきました。終わった時に収穫出来た量にびっくりしました。その面積の田んぼで最もいっぱいとれると思いました。約９つの３０キログラムの袋が収穫できました。大体４人の家族の一年分と聞きました。そして、稲刈りをしながら木村町長が偶然にいらっしゃって頂いて、素敵なスーツの格好で思い切って田んぼに入って、皆さんと握手なさいました。
This time we harvest the rice by hand like they did in the old days. It was much more tiring than I would have thought. After cutting the rice plants by hand we fed the plants into a combine machine and the rice grains were automatically separated from the reeds and neatly sifted into bags. When we finished I was surprised by the amount of rice we were able to harvest. I thought that for a rice field of that size we would get a lot more rice. We ended up getting about nine 30kg bags of rice. I was told that that would be enough to fed a family of four for one year. Also while we were harvesting the rice Mayor Kimura unexpectedly showed up and daringly jumped into the muddy rice field in his nice business suit to shake hands with everyone who was working.

収穫がおわってから、乾谷ファミリに炊き込み御飯と漬物をいただきました。田んぼで苦労をしたから食べ物がとても美味しかったです。今年楽農体験ツアーに参加してよかったなと思います。来年皆さん参加いかがですか！
After we finished all the work the Inuidani Family treated us to takikomi rice (rice steamed with vegetables) and tsukemono (pickled vegetables). After laboring in the fields the food tasted really good. I am really glad that I participated in the Agricultural Experience Tour this year. Next year why don’t you join in too!

Summer in Japan

Being that it's the middle of July and super hot here in Kyoto it would seem obvious that it's already summer, but to me I only really know its summer in Japan when the festivals start. Recently I went to the Tanabata Festival in neighboring Kizugawa City.

To me it really feels like summer when I can go to a festival where the streets are lined with vendors selling all sorts of typical Japanese foods like, okonomiyaki, yakisoba, karage and other such treats. The day of the festival was pretty hot and humid and with so many people packed into the streets it only increased the heat. But its so nice to walk down the rows of food vendors smelling the different foods and maybe drinking a cold beer. The best part of the whole thing is that most of the young children were dressed up in colorful yukata (a light summer version of the traditional kimono). At the festival there were large decorations were people had written down their wishes for the future (see above picture), one such wish was for world peace.

With the smell of grilled foods and tons of people out creating a lively atmosphere it really made me realize how much fun summer in Japan can be despite the oppresive humidity.

Cherry Blossom Viewing (Ohanami) Part I

The highly anticipated cherry blossom viewing season is finally upon us! In just the last week the weather has made a dramatic shift from cold and bitter winter to warm and sunny spring. Ushering in spring is my favorite part of living in Japan; cherry blossom viewing which is called ohanami in Japanese. Almost everywhere you look you can see beautiful white and pink sakura (cherry blossoms). Parks, streets, rivers, and temples are usually lined with sakura trees so for the short lived two weeks or so that they are blossoming everything looks even more gorgeous. But as much as I love the beauty of it all the real reason why I love this time of year is for the ohanami parties.

Most often held in parks, a ohanami party involves food, friends, drinks, nice weather, beautiful scenery and lots of fun. Everyone brings out a big blue tarp and lays it out on the grass underneath the cherry blossom trees with BBQ, snacks and drinks. Its totally acceptable to drink beer or anything else in the park and people often bring music and games as well. For the next couple of weeks I will be trying to enjoy the sakura and ohanami parties as much as possible and I will surely end up with hundreds of photos of the flowers and fun which I will post here for all to see!

My first opportunity came this past Saturday when I went with a friend to Maruyama Park in Kyoto City. It was a really warm day even though it was cloudy. The sakura were not in full bloom yet but there were still plenty of blossoms to see. Also just walking around Kawaramachi and Gion in Kyoto there were plenty of beautiful sites and photos to be taken everywhere you look.

Irrational Fear?

A large majority of Japanese people that I know have a dislike of crows. This can range from a slight distaste to hatred all the way to a seemingly irrational deep down fear of the beady eyed dark creatures. This is understandable as well as unfortunate as there are crows everywhere in Japan. They congregate in parks, lurk in alleyways and feed out of trash cans. I personally never had anything against them and while there is something distinctly ominous about crows I never feared or hated them. But all that changed just the other day.

On Sunday I was in Kyoto City sitting by the Kamo River in Sanjyo just enjoying the scenery and watching the people. I was waiting for a friend and had some time to kill before we went out to eat so I got a rice-ball snack (onigiri) from the convenience store. On occasion I eat onigiri but I am not a huge fan of them, but this onigiri was by far the best one I have ever had. It was a fried rice onigiri with shrimp, egg and pork on the inside. I had taken only two bites and was commenting to myself how unusually good this particular onigiri was when all of a sudden there was a loud noise and the onigiri disappeared from my hand! I was essentially looking in the same direction as my lovely rice ball but I had seen nothing. The noise was like a whoosh-smack and was accompanied by a slight pain in my now onigiri-less hand.

The shock, fear and pain momentarily confused me but I soon realized what happened when I saw the ruthless gang of crows having a bird feeding frenzy with my onigiri only 10 feet in front of me. If you haven’t deciphered the story by now, one of those little ruffians swooped out of the air and snatched my onigiri right out of my upraised hand, nearly taking my finger with it. After the shock subsided I was full of rage at the conniving feathered thieves for having committed beaked-robbery of the best onigiri I had ever had (and had only taken two bites of). But as I was surrounded by passers-by who probably didn’t even notice the brutal rice-ball snatching I figured I would be the one that looked like a lunatic if I tried to exact my revenge upon them there. So I sat with my pain and anger which eventually lead me from thoughts of murderous revenge to a slight respect for the cunning, precision heist that they had pulled off. I mean that crow swooped out of the sky right in front of my face and skillfully ripped the rice-ball out of my hand without me even seeing anything. And while there was some pain in the finger no blood was drawn and no evidence to show of the attack. While I still can't forgive them their trespass I have to admit a certain amount of awe at their artful larceny.

So now I join the Japanese in their dislike of the dark angels of theft. For now I will never be able to enjoy my onigiri in peace whilst those hooligans are about.